Each issue of Covered Bridge we, your brave culinary explorers Russel Reuben and William Montecristo, search the valley for inspiring burgers, sandwiches, tacos, snacks on a stick, second breakfasts and finger foods.
Issue seven of Covered Bridge comes as summer vibes turn to pleasant memories, and salad season is officially behind us. Now, it’s time to pack some bulk back on these dad bods with hearty meals in preparation for the cold winter nights ahead. With that, we turned our laser focus and manly hunger to a meal as controversial as it is delicious. The sandwich so good they named a city after it: the Philly Cheesesteak.
Since the 1930s, “steaks” have sparked endless debates about origin, authenticity and ingredients. Some argue that it’s the edible equivalent of Champagne and that its precious name should be protected by international treaties outside city limits.
We, your humble food legends, are usually comfortable talking about subjects we know very little about. It’s actually kind of our thing. A paraphrased headline or a snippet from a podcast is pretty much all we need to confidently ramble through a conversation on quantum mechanics, goat husbandry or the Renaissance fair. But this time, we knew we were on sacred ground. So, we dedicate this not to the “most authentic” but to those inspired by the icon who strive to push the envelope far beyond the Liberty City.
The Pursuit of the Inauthentic: Bar conversation inspired by knock-off sandwiches, Bob Dylan covers and Philly sports legends.
Gold: Craftsman, EdwardsRussel: In 2018, Nick Foles came off the bench for an injured Carson Wentz and
went on to win the Birds their first Super Bowl since 1960. Sure, the classics are
good, and some are great, but legends are born when you order the GCP “Hoagie Style” and add burger sauce. Like the freedom machine “BDN” himself, it feels like we just got away with something.
William: Like Waylon Jennings’ cover of “Don’t Think Twice, It’s Alright,” Craftsman takes the ubiquitous and makes it unforgettable. The Green Chili Philly’s shaved ribeye, griddled onion and hoagie bun smack of Waylon’s rugged, soulful sound. Hatch green chilis and two melty cheeses add depth to this classic cut. “It ain’t no use to sit and wonder why babe, if you don’t know by now.”
Silver: La Bottega, VailRussel: They may never agree on with or without, but any American with eyeballs can agree that Rocky IV is the best of the franchise. Yes, La Bottega strays from the authenticity of Rocky I’s grounded, gritty drama. Instead, it serves up enough delicious, cheesy satisfaction to pump you up for a Siberian training montage. Do you want to chase the chicken like a bum, or climb mountains, carry tree trunks and pull tractors like the best Rocky?
William: How is a Philly sandwich, served with German-style potato salad, from an Italian restaurant like the Hendrix version of “All Along the Watchtower”? It’s bold, unexpected and leaves you sweating. The Philly foundation is still there, but the tangy hot peppers take it to a new decibel level that will light your tastebuds and guitars on fire. Aprés goals: Snag a spot on a sunny Vail patio, order 21 inches of steak, and wait for Russy Rubes and me to appear. “Two riders were approaching, and the wind began to howl.”
Bronze: Pickled, EagleRussel: Socrates, Descartes, Iverson. 22 years after saying “practice” 22 times at a press conference, AI’s contribution to the crossover, philosophy and Philadelphia still boggles minds. The original or the tribute? Practice or the game? Whiz or Provolone? Pickled might not have clinched a ring, but their sandwich menu still has fans talking. Because it’s about the passion and experience, not the title. Could this sandwich cross up 23? Probably not. Was it worth a drive to Eagle? Yes.
William: The ordinary gets amplified by an electrified take on the quintessential American sandwich. Kind of like how Guns N’ Roses’ took your mom’s favorite song and cranked it up with their version of “Knockin’ on Heaven’s Door.” It’s an old tune with a heavy metal pepper twist that makes the whole experience feel rebellious and loud. I know it’s hard to skip the fancy chips, but their potato salad is way better than your mom’s version too. Rumor has it they might have scored even higher if GNR was on the radio that day and not DMB. “If you could just get out of life alive.”
Disclaimer: These rankings are absolutely anecdotal samplings of some of the food we ate with our hands and is by no stretch of the imagination an all-inclusive or accurate encapsulation of the valley’s cornucopia of offerings. If you have a suggestion of where we should eat next please email us at eatwithyourhandsvail@gmail.com.
Illustrations by Becca Saulsberry.