Finding Kinship Between Adventure + Culture in the Desert

A late-winter or early spring trip to Arizona provides a much-needed respite from Vail’s frigid temps, not to mention a preseason chance to check out the Rockies’ starting line-up. But besides providing a haven for snowbirds and baseball fans, Phoenix, Arizona and its neighbor city Scottsdale have opportunities aplenty for outdoors-lovers, art aficionados and those keen to explore the interconnectedness of the two.

Upon landing at Phoenix Sky Harbor International Airport, you’ll no doubt be eager to get outside and bask in the warm rays beaming down on one of the nation’s sunniest cities. But as you walk to baggage claim, keep your eyes peeled for the Phoenix Airport Museum’s more than 900 paintings, sculptures and aviation artifacts positioned across roughly 40 exhibit spaces.

DESERT DINING + MID-CENTURY GLAM

With your appetite for artistry sated, at least for now, turn your rental car (a convertible, perhaps?) toward Scottsdale. If you’re visiting in February or March, catch a game (and hopefully a fly ball) at the Rockies’ home away from home, Salt River Fields at Talking Stick. Otherwise, while away the afternoon at the 140- acre Desert Botanical Garden posing next to a historic organ pipe cactus, learning why Arizona’s state tree has green bark and experiencing more than 50,000 plant displays that highlight the beauty and tenacity of the desert.

When your stomach propels you toward dinner, simply head to your hotel, the newly redone (to the tune of $18 million) Hotel Valley Ho. As you check in, ogle mid-century architectural touches blended with Southwest style like the. 350-pound, decorative concrete panels lining the lobby, and then make your way to ZuZu, the hotel’s on-site eatery. There, order a collection of dishes to share like short rib empanadas, spicy Hawaiian ahi tuna and crispy fingerling potatoes. Finish the day with a dip in the Oh Pool, the same massive, round oasis where Bing Crosby, Zsa Zsa Gabor and Marilyn Monroe once lounged.

HIKING, HISTORY + DESERT KINSHIP

The next morning, after filling up your water bottles (bring multiple — you’re in the desert!) and generously applying sunscreen, you’re off to hike the Gateway Loop Trail at McDowell Sonoran Preserve. As you traverse the 4.4-mile loop, you’ll certainly see countless cacti, but if you’re lucky, a black-chinned hummingbird, golden eagle or Sonoran Desert tortoise will make an appearance too. Post-hike, refuel with the poblano chicken enchiladas from neighborhood eatery The Vig (their McDowell Mountain location will be closest) before making your way up the winding drive to Frank Lloyd Wright’s winter home, studio and architectural laboratory, Taliesin West. The audio tour provides rich detail about both the architect and his philosophies, most notably his belief that a building should be inspired by and in harmony with nature. That kinship is easy to see as you take in Taliesin West’s famous “desert masonry” of local stone and wooden forms set before the rising McDowell Mountains.

You’ll no doubt want to freshen up at the hotel before dinner at James Beard Award-nominated Citizen Public House (try house favorites like hoisin pork belly or The Original Chopped Salad, which the state of Arizona recently dubbed a “celebrated culinary staple”), but if there’s time, stop by the Scottsdale Museum of Contemporary Art (just $16 for an adult walk-up pass) to see completed masterpieces or the Cattle Track Arts Compound to see expert works in-process.

PADDLES, GALLERIES + LOCAL FLAVOR

Wake up on the early side — earlier if you want to try from-scratch cinnamon roll pancakes at Daily Dose Bar & Grill instead of grabbing a quick breakfast from ZuZu — because your put-in time at Saguaro Lake will likely be around 10 a.m. Once there, your American Canoe Association-certified guide from Riverbound Sports will walk you through the basics of kayaking. Then, paddle out to see the lake’s creativity-inspiring desert shoreline (covered with, you guessed it, saguaros) and rock walls that rise up to 1,000 feet in some areas.

Look for similar imagery on a smaller scale when you return to Old Town Scottsdale and, after a crispy chicken sammie (look for “The OG” on the menu) from funky-chic DoDo Bird Kitchen + Cocktails, browse through the area’s more than 60 art galleries. You’ll find that Amery Bohling Fine Art and Jim Sudal Ceramic Design in particular capture the morning’s scenery, the former with oils and the latter in pottery. When happy hour comes around, match a prickly pear marg with the house guac from The Mission’s Old Town Scottsdale location. Stick around for more modern Latin main courses.

SOARING HIGH: BALLOON VIEWS + BRUNCH

Begin your last day on a high note with Hot Air Expeditions, which Fodor’s Travel has called the “Best Balloon Flight in Phoenix” for 26 consecutive years. Your roughly hour-long ride in the sky takes you up to 3,000 feet above the Sonoran Desert, allowing ample time to survey mountains in the distance and look for local wildlife. Upon returning to terra firma, you’ll be treated to a Champagne brunch amidst the desert scenery you just saw from above. And after reciting the Balloonist’s Blessing, you’ll raise your glass to adventure, to beauty and to a place that inspires both.